Final Engine Assembly and Installation

Last updated: January 30, 2007

Where the "M" stands for MOTOR, it should be the easiest part of the restoration. It almost is. It's very enjoyable to take one apart and rebuild it - watching the craftsmanship, tolerances and overall engineering that went into this engine. This work is very gratifying to do on this project in my opinion.

MAN IS IT HOT... The month of July is warm here in the middle of the country. This is the inside temperature of my garage area. You can sweat 5 lbs a day off when it's this hot - especially with the humidity here.

From the crankshaft end, the rear main seal is installed and the cover installed around it.
Ok, moving around to the side, I have installed the Oil Filter stand, the water tube and the TII linkage bracket with arms. The Alternator has been installed.
A 3/4 view showing the special bracket that holds the oil filter stand to the warm up regulator of the FI pump.
On the front, this view shows the lower timing cover and the engine hoist hook between the water pump and the lower timing cover.
Installing the triangle shaped plate on the rear of the oil filter stand which joins with the warm up regulator.
The starter holds a special bracket which firmly mounts to the engine block and the side of the throttle body.
These two nuts hold the bracket in place. The parts manual does not show this mounting very clearly.
The brake vacuum line. It mounts to the intake manifold between the two runners closest to the firewall. The other end attaches to the lower portion of the brake booster. This cloth lined hose comes from Walloth & Nesch and matches the original part. The fabric also contains a wire wrap for strength. To cut it, wrap the ends with masking tape and use a hack saw or fine tooth sawzall blade to cut it. This tape method gives a nice clean edge. Them I used one wrap of electrical cloth tape and a small hose clamp to hold it in place.
This housing on the rear of the cylinder head holds the distributor. I temporarily have this bolt in the oil pressure sender hole to keep dirt out till the part arrives.
This view shows where the sender mounts to the block.
This view shows the top of the kpump with the lines removed. It's about time to add the lines though!
A view showing the intake stub manifold with the two metal brackets which secure the intake log manifold. I have 4 new injectors on the engine which should renew the performance to original "zip" for sure.
This shows the location where the hose mounts on the warm up regulator and pokes it's way up through the intake stub manifold.
Then we add the plastic high pressure fuel delivery lines to the setup.
These white plastic block parts on the fuel lines are "keepers" which keep the lines together.
A side view of the injectors and the lines.
This enlarged view shows the entire fuel injector lines connected from nozzle to pump.
This is another view showing the intake manifold "elbows" installed.
To install the log manifold, you have to remove the valve cover to secure the back of the manifold to the intake brackets (inverted V and I shaped metal pieces).
Pump view.
End elbows installed.
View of the breather hose which tucks under the log portion of the intake manifold.
The small hose then connects to the side of the throttle body. The long end will eventually connect up to the TII air box.
Side view of the intakes.
Top view of the intake side of the engine.
I don't have the linkage hooked up yet, but it's coming. This shows all the elbows installed temporarily.
Time to put the engine to bed for a while till I get the last few missing parts.
The radiator fan fits - checked it out -- too early to call it done to that point!
AUGUST...
This is the correct TII throttle return spring. If yours does not look like this, you need the real thing. I can't tell you how many TII's I have seen with the wrong one - and to press the gas pedal is a night mare and cramped leg after a short drive!   Take your needle nose pliers and curl the ends a bit so it stays hooked up.
One end hooks under the first intake runner closest to the radiator. It's easy with the runner off.
The other end connects to the throttle body linkage. It has a special end to hold the spring in place.
Here is an overview that shows both connections.
Installed the oil pressure sender and the three missing bolts that hold the distributor onto the cylinder head.
On the rear side of the Kugelfisher pump is a small cup. It is designed to hold a small plastic washer. If your car's linkage is squeaky or sloppy, chances are yours is missing.
Here is an overview of it showing the linkage.
The end of the throttle butterfly control shaft fits into the small bushing.
Once installed, it holds nicely with the ball and socket arrangement. This view shows both of the small throttle control rods installed.
A view showing where the clamp that fits around the throttle butterfly will connect up.
This is the "old school" cloth covered fuel line like came on the car originally. I have one of the GEMI hose clamps fitted - these are the ones specifically for fuel injection lines.
And the other end connects to the cold start valve on the throttle body. Per factory photos I've seen the fuel line runs between the first two runners and around the "tuna can".
 
This section is completed!

 


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